The MidLife Adventuress

Seeking Breathless Wonder in the World

~Explosions of Color~

May 8th, 2015



~ A Passementerie, Mercerie and Millinery~


So many times in Paris I can’t help but return to my favorite places – those iconic spaces that I can’t seem to get enough of

– the pâtisseries, the book stores, the gardens, the churches, the museums.


But sometimes you need to break the habit.

Sometimes you need an adventure of another sort.


This day was one of those days – A day to explore the unknown

– A day for new discoveries-


We were in search of a Passementerie, a Mercerie and Millinery.


We followed our map- traversing new streets, turning right and left-

Making our way to what was once the thriving quartier of dressmakers, tailors and hat makers.


We pass by the Bourse -the Paris stock exchange- where people walked with current purpose,

while we follow our purpose of discovery- of the past,

 passing windows in  stores that paid homage to what came before.


And finally we get to our destination

~ Ultramod ~

-14 rue Monsigny-


This store is seriously Ultra Cool.

We step into the small doorway and immediately get the sense of the importance of this place in the trade.

It has been here since 1890.


A Passementerie, a Mercerie and Millinery.

I love the sounds of these words.

They conjure up a Paris of the past-these stores that sell ribbons, buttons, tassels & hat making supplies.

Places where imagination turns into creations.



It’s rumored that the French haute couture designer Jean Paul Gaultier shops here and back in the day Givenchy would frequent these shops looking for that certain something to adorn his creations.


There are boxes and boxes of buttons that line a wall, looking more like colorful mosaic tiles then buttons.


I slip across the narrow street to the Millinery shop.

Here pilled high are hat forms, bands, feathers, netting and more things than I certainly  would know what to do with.


Back across the street Peggy Sue is finishing her selections which we give to the salesman

-a serious sort-

who is wearing an apron to protect the whiteness of his crisp oxford shirt.


He measures out the meters of ribbon on what I am sure is the original wood cutting table.

We pay at the cash register that is not a modern scanner, but in keeping with the feel of the store

an old fashion tall type with round metal strike-keys

 which make that long forgotten noise as each item is purchased.


The next few days finds us at

La Droguerie 9-11 rue du Jour-


Declercq Passementiers-15 rue Eteinne Marcel


~Ready for new & fabulous Paris discoveries~





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